It wasn’t that long ago when I landed in a tiny country right on the eastern side of the old land known as Arabia. It was a February day just before spring. I was there in this tiny country that not many people knew; at least those in the western world. My adventurous spirit was ready to explore this tucked away land that has no poor. What is known as the forbidden fruit lays untouched on the ground while I am driven down the streets in a taxi to my hotel. I couldn’t help but notice how clean the city was and that there was no homelessness wondering around. My first thought was I’m in a foreign Beverly Hills.
The desert land still holds traces of its powerful past. Its history tries to seep out even though it is moving fast in this advanced technical Era. All the high rise buildings and expensive cars driving around you can see why no one there cares to seek out its past. Preoccupied in this material world of luxury they have no time for what they deem unnecessary. It is now just a modern world like the modern world where I came from.
I ended up on the desert floor and noticed the sand seemed so smooth and even throughout; as if it was new, young, and never been touched. Sandstorms came from a distance and covered every footstep I made just like they did in ancient days. The old forts of Al Wajbah, Zekreet, and Al Tahqab are still standing and want to tell their story. Their history isn’t really that old, only slightly younger of a hundred years or so.
I get close to the Al Wajbah Fort, and it reminds me of a small castle replica. You begin to imagine how many men were doing their strategic planning for The Battle of Al Wajbah. It must have been exhilarating for the Qatari people of 1893 knowing they just defeated the biggest empire of all time. Cutting off food and water supplies to the enemy kept them in that dominant winning position. The people of the Qatari tribes were now able to establish their own county even though they were still under the Ottoman Empire’s rule. It wasn’t until 1915 when the Qataris’ finally gained their full independence and were no longer under the Ottoman Empire’s control. If I close my eyes, I can try to imagine the sounds and feelings of freedom on that day.
I ventured off to another site I wanted to explore. The Zekreet Fort was very interesting and quite bazaar in appearance. There are remnants of what could have been four towers. I’m not even sure if one was intentionally situated lower than the other three. Not much remains of this fort and I also wonder what its real purpose was. There is a beach nearby, so maybe this fort did have lookout towers for possible invaders that would come quietly by sea. Not like today where tourists could possibly sunbath and just enjoy a nice sunny day.
Another small castle replica I found on the northern part was the Al Thaqab Fort. This fort definitely had a better military architecture design. The fort was made with limestone and mud mortar. I’m sure this is what is keeping it in perfect condition. You enter the fort through a set of very large wooden double doors. There is also a small door embedded within each of the large doors. It makes you wonder if the Qataris had tall and very short people to create such an interesting door. Narrow steps lead you to the tower. What a great view you can see when you are in the tower. I’m sure this gave the people in the fort plenty of time to prepare and defend themselves. What seemed strange and peculiar was one area that had large wooden pegs sticking out of the wall that leads to a tiny opening. There were even other holes without any pegs. Perhaps these were made for a quick escape or a surprise attack on their enemies. Knowing that its name Thaqab means “the water in the bottom of the valley after the rain” I was surprised not to find any indication of a well. Maybe it is hidden as it was during the ancient days it was occupied.
But it is Ruwayda that holds a mysterious ancient history. Some say that she was inhabited as early as the 1500s, but was abruptly abandoned near the end of the 1800s. Ruwayda was the largest fortress of her time. She sits snuggly along the northern border, quietly and forgotten near a shallow bay. She was most likely a thriving urban city with an important port with many trading contacts. There have only been a few clues of what was traded that had been found. There was some red granite mortars, some broken porcelain cups, and some earthenware from a recent discovery. Ruwayda was definitely interacting with those outside of Arabia.
Ruwayda was developing during the time of the Ottoman Empire. The Ottoman Empire was powerful, mighty and the longest lasting empire that reigned for slightly over 600 years. The empire had control over many countries and enjoyed its peak during the 15th century. The new ruler in his own way was brilliant, intelligent and had a strategic mind, Suleiman the Magnificent they called him. He was a political ruler and also a religious leader. During his reign, he occupied most of the Middle East and parts of Eastern Europe to as far as Greece.
The Ottoman Empire enjoyed the arts, sciences, and medicine. The enjoyment of poetry was widely shared even Suleiman the Magnificent expressed his love in poetry to a European slave who later becomes his one and only true wife. Born 1502 in a small town in Poland where she was violently ripped away at a young age. There she was taken away from her family and stolen from her homeland. Afraid and terrified of what will become of her. I am sure she must have prayed for a miracle to be saved. She was forced on a ship headed to an undesirable land. Once in the royal harem known as Topkapi Palace is where she started her new life. A palace still standing and still containing hundreds of rooms, many bathhouses and not to mention remnants of what were beautiful courtyards. A harem they are known as and only pleasure was required of them. Perhaps this was a twisted form of security for women during this time. It wasn’t that long until she became his favorite one. Based on Suleiman poems it appears she was like no other. Her trials now were with the jealousy from the other women who wanted to tear her down so they could be the chosen one.
Once known as Aleksandra her name was later changed to Hurrem Sultan by Suleiman. She was also called Roxelana some say it was because of her lustrous red hair. Perhaps this Polish girl was much clever than anyone thought. She used her astonishing beauty and mastered the skills of seduction to win Suleiman over. Maybe her strategy, in the beginning was for revenge. Her goal was to reach the highest position and bring the largest empire to a crumbling end. Did her plan fail or was it true love after all? They both broke so many rules and traditions. It was forbidden for an Ottoman Sultan to marry his concubine. To them, it didn’t matter. Many children she bore, and now an empire is shared by two different genetic codes.
I cannot tell as I stand upon the ancient lands of Turkey where once stood Hurren Sultan. She walked herself throughout this enormous mansion which is still in immaculate condition. The wealth and riches still remain on the walls. Perfectly coordinated, systematic designs with the blues, the reds, the greens, and gold with touches of the old Anatolian scripts gently placed all around. There is no denying it; the artwork is so divine and confirms their artistic expertise.
Moving about I couldn’t help but notice the seat where important and powerful decisions were made. Alongside Suleiman was his wife Hurrem Sultan who contributed to state affairs and had political influence. Uncommon for a woman at that time and no one can deny the brilliant and intelligent mind of this woman. If only this time could reappear just for me, it is still unimaginable for me to see them both standing here.
Such perfect details, such love of art can be seen throughout this house of Suleiman. One can easily get lost trying to look through the eyes of a young girl that once lived here as a concubine and later as a powerful empress from centuries ago.
Traveling through the Middle East in this current day can only give you a glimpse of what might have been. Digging around and exploring about still leaves you hungry for the history that once lived. Lost books and undiscovered cities still remain and I wonder if they will ever be found. Deep in the ground, the cries of many extraordinary stories are desperately trying to be revealed. Unlike the Alexandria Library that was accidentally burned to the ground during the Siege of Alexandria. It was a sad year of 48 B.C. when Julius Caesar the Emperor of Rome was in his fight with Pompey.
Another love story I suppose when an emperor breaks the rules to capture the favor of a beautiful woman. This time it wasn’t Suleiman and Hurrem Sultan, but now it is Julius Caesar and Cleopatra. A political move Julius Caesar made, but it was Cleopatra’s brilliance knowing that she needed to persuade the world’s most powerful man to gain full control of Egypt. Her beauty and mind must have been undeniable for an emperor to get involved in another countries succession.
So many rulers controlled and had a stronghold in the Middle East. Nothing compares to the ancient history of Jerusalem which lies many miles north of Arabia and south of Turkey. It wasn’t long ago when many tribes lived throughout the Middle East. There was one man named, King Solomon. He was a man of great wisdom, and his writings still exist today. Many rulers of this time period, including the Queen of Sheba, traveled to Jerusalem to seek his great wisdom. He had enormous wealth and power, and there was peace during his reign.
Some say there was peace because King Solomon had so many wives. To prevent his country from being attacked by another, his strategy was to marry a princess from all foreign lands. So many wives, so much money, it was just a matter of time before the pagan worship of many destroyed his kingdom. At his death in 931 B.C. rebellion broke out and his kingdom was split into two. A sad ending for Solomon all his wealth and wisdom couldn’t save his united kingdom.
If only my steps could travel in a time machine so I can physically see the events unraveling in front of me. From Adam and Eve to the day I was born it would be remarkable to see. Being able to see how these people actually lived and experience firsthand as they did. What a delicious taste of life it would be to be living in these periods of time. But I wonder could I have stopped Eve from eating the forbidden fruit? Could I have made some other dramatic switcheroo or was everything set as it was planned to be; and there is nothing that could break this divine order.
A taste of history I just devoured. Sweeter than honey and I’m still hungry. I still hear the past calling me to reach out, jump in and bath myself in all its glorious and remarkable stories.
Back to my modern world, I must go, but I won’t stop desiring to know the ancient past.